Posted on Leave a comment

Kusum Kanguru

Kusum Kanguru

"The 3 Snow Gods"
Kusum Kanguru
A view of Kususm from Thado Koshi village

Kusum Kanguru is located in the Hinku Valley on the Everest Base Camp trek. It is the first major peak you will see after landing in Lulka. It is also an excellent choice for difficult and technical peak climbing. Kusum is one of the most difficult peaks to climb under 7,000 m (22,965 ft) in Nepal. It maintains a thick covering of snow all year long on its 3 co-dominant peaks. Reaching the peak is a rewarding mountaineering experience because you have panoramic views of Kyashar, Kangtega, Thamserku, Malangphulang, Peak 41, Junku, Kongde Ri, Ama Dablam, Namche village, among other beautiful sights.

Why is Kusum Kanguru called “3 Snow-White Gods”?

Kusum Kanguru’s name means Three Snow-White Gods in Sherpa. It is named after the 3 peaks on the main summit. The name originates from Tibetan and Sherpa Buddhism. The traditional belief is that Buddhist divinities, in this case three snow-white gods, live in every mountain, forest, and cave.

They believe the gods have to be respected and appeased through rituals performed by lamas (Buddhist priests). If you do decide to go peak climbing, Upper Himalayan Treks and Adventure will invite a lama to perform the ritual for a safe climb.

Folk lore tells a story of how the three snow white gods separate the East and the West by forming the border between the Dudh Khosi river and the Hinku Valley. The snow-white gods look over the area and protect it.

Who was the first person to climb Kusum Kanguru?

Kusum Kanguru was first climbed by a Japanese expedition in 1979. After four historically unsuccessful summit attempts by the British, a Japanese team headed by Ken Kanazawa reached the north-eastern summit of Kusum Kanguru peak on 9 October 1979. They met one of the three snow-white gods.

Kusum Kanguru
The west peak of Kusum

 Where is Kusum Kanguru located?

Kusum Kanguru is a Himalayan Mountain in Nepal’s Khumbu Region. Kusum Kanguru’s Kyashar Himal ridge, which runs from the North to the South of Kusum, forms the border between the Dudh Khosi river and east Hinku Valley. The mountain is the leading source of the Kusum Khola (or Thado Koshi Khola) that flows from the south summit westward to merge with the Dudh Khosi River at Thado Koshi village. You get your first view of Kusum Kanguru from Thado Koshi village.

How tall is Kusum Kanguru?

The main summit of Kusum Kanguru reaches an altitude of 6,367 meters (20,889 ft). The mountain is classified as a trekking peak, and is considered to be one of the most difficult to climb.

Its base camp is located off of the Kyashar Kola (on the north side), below the Thamserku Trekking trail. The trail leads to Thamserku base camp. Kusum Kanguru’s base camp is at an elevation of 4,440 m (14,566 ft). The first and second camps are at 5,400 m (17,716 ft)and 5,880 m (19,291 ft).

The western summit is at an elevation of 5,579 m (18,303 ft). The Eastern Summit is just a little taller at 6,356 m (20,853 ft)

Kusum Kanguru Climbing Peak Route

There are 3 routes on the north face of three snow-white gods. The routes begin at Monjo and follow the Kusum Kanguru trekking trail, which branches below the Thamserku trail. The trail ends at Kusum base camp above Khyshar Kola and above Kyshar Glaycer. From here the trail branches into 3 parts. It takes 2 to 3 days to get to north base camp.

  • The eastern trail leads to the ridge below Kyashar. Then continues to the east summit.
  • The middle trail leads south east then hooks south west. It terminates at the main peak.
  • The western trail leads south to the main summit.

Camp 1 and Camp 2 can be taken anywhere on the mountain.

  • The route on the south face begins in Hinku Valley where base camp is located at the base of the mountain. On this trail you can reach base camp in about 5 days.
Kususm Kanguru
North face of Kusum Kanguru


Final Thoughts

Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing is an amazing mountaineering experience. It explores Sherpa culture and life at elevation. In addition peak climbing in the Hinku Valley of Nepal is just beyond words.

If you Enjoy tall mountains, Nepal, hiking, or just a fan of Kusum. Please join us on this adventure.